Chikankari sarees are timeless pieces of hand embroidery that reflect the rich heritage of Indian craftsmanship. Originating from Lucknow, this intricate art form has gained global admiration for its elegance and finesse. However, with growing popularity, the market is now flooded with machine-made or fake alternatives. So, how can you tell if a chikankari saree is truly authentic?
In this blog, we’ll walk you through expert tips to help you identify an original chikankari saree and make a smart purchase.
What Is a Chikankari Saree?
Chikankari is a traditional hand-embroidery technique from Lucknow, often done on lightweight fabrics like cotton, georgette, muslin, or chiffon. A chikankari saree features delicate, floral, and paisley patterns created using over 30 different stitches such as bakhiya, phanda, keel kangan, and murri.
Why It’s Important to Spot the Original
As a buyer, identifying authentic hand-embroidered sarees ensures:
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You get value for your money.
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You support the artisans who keep this art alive.
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You avoid purchasing machine-stitched imitations that lack originality.
How to Identify an Authentic Chikankari Saree
1. Check the Fabric
Authentic chikankari is mostly done on breathable, soft fabrics:
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Cotton – Perfect for daily wear and summer seasons.
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Georgette or Chiffon – Ideal for formal occasions and parties.
Tip: If the fabric feels synthetic or stiff, it may not be genuine.
2. Inspect the Embroidery Closely
Hand embroidery has slight irregularities – and that’s a good thing.
What to look for:
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Uneven threads and knots on the reverse side.
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Intricate patterns that don’t appear mechanically perfect.
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Variety in stitching – machine work often looks repetitive and uniform.
Pro Tip: Flip the saree and examine the back; hand-embroidered designs won’t be as neat as machine-stitched ones.
3. Know the Key Chikankari Stitches
Familiarize yourself with a few original chikankari stitches:
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Bakhiya (shadow work) – done on the reverse side.
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Phanda – small knot-like stitches.
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Murri – rice-shaped patterns.
If the saree includes these and shows signs of variation in handwork, chances are it’s authentic.
4. Ask About the Making Process
A trustworthy seller or artisan should be able to explain:
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Where the saree was made.
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Which artisans worked on it.
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How many hours or days it took to complete.
Ask questions! Sellers promoting machine-made chikankari won’t have detailed answers.
5. Check the Price vs. Value
Hand-embroidered chikankari sarees take days, sometimes weeks to finish.
If you find a chikankari saree at a very low price (under ₹1,000), it’s likely machine-made. Authentic handwork comes at a slightly premium price – but it’s worth the craftsmanship.
6. Buy from Reputed Sellers or Certified Platforms
Support government-run emporiums, artisan cooperatives, or online platforms that promote handmade products with GI (Geographical Indication) tags.
Examples include:
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SEWA Lucknow
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Crafts Council of India
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Credible handloom e-commerce platforms
Always ask for a handloom or authenticity certificate if available.
Conclusion
An authentic chikankari saree is more than just a garment – it’s a piece of Indian heritage and artistry. By paying attention to the fabric, embroidery details, stitches, and source, you can confidently make a purchase that supports true craftsmanship.
